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Embroidery ornamental needlework. Embroidery can be of two types: folk and refined. nakshi kanthas are the most well-known form of folk embroidery. Skill in embroidery was once considered a qualification for marriageable girls. Embroidered items were given as gifts and as favours.
Traditional nakshi kanthas used various forms of the
running stitch in a variety of patterns to create motifs and border designs.
Jessore, Faridpur and Rajshahi were famous for nakshi kanthas. Rajshahi
is also well known for nakshi kanthas using the cross stitch and sujnis
or coverlets using the back stitch. Traditionally, rural women embroidered
kanthas with thread drawn from sari borders. Since the mid-80s, with the
commercialisation of the nakshi kantha, the artistic quality of the embroidery
has diminished.
Another form of folk
embroidery is the nakshi
pakha (embroidered fan), made of cloth and embellished
with embroidery. Embroidered handkerchiefs and pillow covers are
still made by girls to give as gifts to the young men they love.
Refined embroidery is not indigenous, but has come
from abroad and has developed on a commercial basis. Embroidered
muslin
and jamdani
were popular in the Mughal court. They were also exported to Europe
in the 18th and 19th centuries. |
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Embroidery |
Kashida embroidery, using muga and tasar
yarn on cotton and silk, was the most popular form of embroidery. Kasida
embroidery is believed to have come from Basra in the 9th century. Karchob
embroidery, for which Dhaka was famous, consists of gold and silver work
done on tightly stretched cloth. Currently, this is called karchupi,
adi and iri.
Depending on what yarn was used, the embroidery was given
different names. There were a number of forms of karchob embroidery including
zardozi, kalabatan or golabatan, karchika,
and kamdani. Gold, silver and silk work on muslin and on shawls
was called zardozi. Embroidery using zari, fine gold or silver
threads, was known as kalabatan or golabatan. Gold or silver work on cotton
muslin was known as kamdani. Relatively fine work of gold or silver zari
was called karchika. White work on white muslin and nainsook, light cotton
fabric, was called chikan, chikankari and chikandaji.
Embroidery using coloured silk on cotton cloth was called fulkuri
or fulbuti.
In Bangladesh, many of these forms of embroidery have
been revived. Non-Bengali artisans of Mohammadpur and Mirpur still do
karchob. Chikan embroidery on kurtas and kameezes is done
in places like Mirpur, Kachukhet, Mohammadpur and Dayaganj. In addition
to these traditional forms of embroidery, western embroidery stitches
such as the satin stitch, the lazy-daisy, and the chain stitch are also
used to embroider pillow covers, bedspreads, tablecloths, napkins, and
kameezes, etc. Satin stitch embroidery is commonly used for badges. [Momen
Chowdhury]
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